Once again I found myself in Mayfair. Having left one meeting later than expected, I thought I would be chasing my tail for the rest of the day… until I checked my emails. It turned out my lunchtime meeting had been postponed to late afternoon, so I could slow my pace… and find myself a coffee shop.
There were a couple recommended on Duke Street but the one I really liked the look of was H.R. Higgins.

It had an old-worldly feel about it that I have experienced in the St James’ area, with its shopfronts that have stood the test of time, keeping shaving brushes and luxury umbrellas still à la mode. And for H. R. Higgins, aka “the Coffee-man”, it’s not just a façade. The shop has had a home in the heart of Mayfair since 1942 – although its been just under 40 years in its current location.
Browsing through their website when writing this post I was particularly touched to discover that “During a trip to Tanzania in 1960, Harold met with coffee producers from the Kibo Chagga farm on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. It was here that H. R. Higgins became the first British coffee roaster to buy directly from the farmers themselves, developing a relationship that still stands to this day.”
(Read on my Tanzania coffee-making adventure here)
On arrival I was greeted by a professional looking barista – all white shirt and apron, surrounded by coffee beans and related paraphernalia for selling the raw product. I could tell he was disappointed when I asked about the café, obviously eager to guide me to a bean variety suitable for my tastebuds – but instead, having to point me downstairs.
The not-so-large but nicely appointed basement café was surprisingly busy with a mixed crowd: a few tourists, some business folk holding a meeting (not a very private place for it, but who am I to judge!). The two baristas present were both behind the bar when I arrived and didn’t rush to advise me on my next steps: do I sit down or order at the counter? They both gave off a junior feeling, or maybe they were not social animals; the chat was minimal even when I asked for a recommendation from the pastries which would have to serve as my lunch (and so I opted for my go-to: a pain aux raisins)
I took a seat by the wall next to a memorabilia cabinet and soaked in the venue (more modern than the upstairs but still cosy): I appreciated the use of the space available, with the bathroom in a separate, subterranean passageway, and the exit up a set of stairs returning you back onto the main street.
The coffee was served soon after and it was certainly not made by junior, untrained hands – the latte art was beautiful.

In taste, it was hotter than I’m used to – but not to a point I couldn’t drink it, so that wasn’t an issue. On first sips it was pleasantly rich in chocolate and coffee; but it got a bit acidic with drinking, reminding me of Hideaway‘s style. I wondered if it had something to do with it being their own roast – maybe lighter than the smoky dark roasts I usually go for? Worry not, though – I did not struggle finishing the cup, despite its rather substantial size.
What I’m in no doubt about, is that H.R. Higgins is a gem in Mayfair that may be hiding in plain sight for passers-by, drawn more to modern brands. It’s a piece of history, as well as a peaceful retreat for a very nice coffee break – and at a reasonable price for the size, considering the neighbourhood!
Price
£4.60
Verdict justification
A must visit for a journey back in time that is all about coffee – and one that doesn’t disappoint the tastebuds.
To learn more the heart-warming history of H R Higgins, head to their website: https://www.hrhiggins.co.uk/pages/history-heritage
